Jacques Cousteau - A Tribute by Burberry Prorsum

© Chris Astley

Although undoubtedly a coincidence, the Burberry Prorsum Spring/ Summer 2008 show taking place barely two days before the tenth anniversary of the death of Jacques Cousteau, quite possibly the world's most famous deep sea diver, was a fitting tribute. Why? Well, as the eye-searingly bright photo shows, Christopher Bailey has been at it again, taking the Burberry heritage and chucking it in the tumble dryer with a sheet of fresh modernity. Yes, what you are looking at is a trenchcoat made from neoprene, otherwise known as wetsuit material. The irony is although the coat is great looking it is now markedly less waterproof than its heavy-duty cotton drill great great grandfather.

Burberry Prorsum Neoprene Trench is $2150 and is available here.

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A Day Chez Marco Pierre White - The Yew Tree Inn

Marco Pierre White has many "interests" as he calls them. Not businesses, "interests". Not one to divulge what he's up to that much (he hadn't cooked in a professional kitchen for several years before Hell's Kitchen last year) Mr. White isn't one to boast. Looking at the exterior of this sixteenth century pub in Highclere, Berkshire, who'd have thought he was involved with this one?

Oh right, the dirty-great letters on the front of the building. I see.

Now anyone can go and have dinner at The Yew Tree Inn but, as a lovely treat, Mrs. Iconomist booked us in for a night under Marco's roof, staying in one of the smart rooms they have there. On our late afternoon arrival our room wasn't ready which would have been more of an incovenience had they not have had the (fairly) newly installed bar at the back. The first thing that strikes you as you enter the "inn" is that it is far more restaurant than hostelry. Not a bad thing necessarily but there was a sense that it would feel uncomfortable settling in for a pint from the albeit well-stocked bar. No matter as, once we had passed the erroneous Quality Street-filled conch, settle in we did with a local scrumpy and an abundance of broadsheets. Even when he's not there, wherever you are in the building it feels like Marco is watching. Some of this can be attributed to the rather narcissistic collection of caricatures of the chef around the seating area in the bar, all beautifully executed in their own right but as a group slightly haunting.

On up to the rooms (£100 per night) where, after a minor debacle involving room allocation and dining times, we were met with more idiosyncratic décor, the caricatures changing tack, now depicting various politicians, actors, sports stars and socialites. Gazza grinned down from above and I wondered whether he was smiling at that moment. I doubted it. Ted Heath and Ricky Gervais at either end of the bed could have and probably should have given us greater cause for concern but we needed to get ready for dinner. The bathroom was a wetroom with an absolutely cracking shower but the sliding door had a wobbly handle. I could go on, but by golly talking about bathroom fittings is unspeakably dull.

As we descended, the muffled hum of diners' chatter rose up the stairwell which was a good sign. Nobody likes eating in an empty restaurant although with the patron's name literally attached to the place it was hardly likely to be deserted. We sat at the bar with a nice glass of Marlborough Sauvignon and contemplated the meal. Would it be hearty or fancy? Frilly or honest? We soon found out as we were led through to what can only be described as the interrogation table. We weren't quite sure what we had done wrong up to that point. We hadn't even stolen the toilettries in the bathroom. But the spotlight that shone so brightly on our table gave us the impression Marco himself was about to burst through the kitchen doors and question us about the Great Truffle Robbery. As all the other tables bathed in candlelight, we were getting sunburn. As it was a special ocassion we asked to move and, although the Maître D' seemed a little put out, our excellent waiter (hi Nigel!) seamlessly ushered us to probably the best table in the room. It's that one in the foreground. Very cosy.

Finally having sat down we had the opportunity to get to grips with the menu. Seemingly recently shortened, there was no little variety. Mrs. Iconomist chose Omelette Arnold Bennett which was unctuous and creamy and only the sort of thing you'd eat when embarking on a proper dinner, not a twenty minute evening meal. My rillettes de canard was equally naughty. A beautiful layer of duck fat on the top was an extravagant and distinctly unprocessed butter substitute and the shredded bird moist and rich.

The ribeye with snails and garlic butter was well executed, the molluscs melting away in the mouth. But the chips were just OK and not a patch on their triple-cooked third cousins twice removed served at what must be a direct competitior, Heston Blumenthal's Hinds Head. Mrs. Iconomist's Lancashire Hot Pot was good, with a deeply caramelised potato galette on top a stew that could have maybe done with a little more seasoning.

Not having a very sweet tooth I usually peer at the dessert section with more than a little suspicion. Where fruit are concerned I prefer tart to sweet (why put sugar on a strawberry for heaven's sake?) and chocolate leaves me cold. Mrs. Iconomist is exactly the opposite so it was heartening to find options to suit us both. Her Glace Amandine was super, studded as it was with nuggets of caramelly almonds. It was so good it didn't need the hot chocolate sauce that accompanied it and this coming from a chocoholic. The rice pudding with a red fruit compote that was satisfyingly sharp was a smooth amalgam of the creamy and the poignant.

With coffee came gateaux conversation, a frangipane/ puff pastry marriage, or should that be filthy affair? Even after such a satiating meal there was little time for conversation as the sugary puffs were devoured with gusto. With the meal put on the tab, off we waddled upstairs to sleep on our backs. Gervais looked at our stomachs with pity.

Breakfasts associated with a night's stay are invariably underwhelming and, save the decent black pudding and an OK sausage, Marco's was no different. Respectable coffee and a bit of a read of the Sunday papers and we set off for the, unbeknownst to us closed, Highclere Castle. They're a trusting lot at the Yew Tree. As we pulled away it dawned on us that, as we had told the staff we were booked in for lunch and would settle up later, they had no more than a mobile number so it was quite possible we could have driven off home without paying for anything. Fairly nearby Hungerford was entertaining and a suitably named town in which to rediscover much needed appetite.

Another pint of scrumpy and a sit down was in order on our return, the staff visibly relieved we hadn't made a run for it. Then back through to the restaurant where, although we entertained the customary menu perusal, there was really only one dish that was going to hit the mark. And this is really where an establishment such as this stands out from your average spit and sawdust, swirly carpet pub. The roast beef was, get this, pink. The Yorkshire pudding was big and puffy and the gravy was a simple case of the rich meat juices. The roast potatoes were good but not transcendent as some can be and the perefectly drinkable house, whisper it, Merlot was a suitable foil for the whole lot.

Our usual adventurous natures deserted us for dessert as we played it safe and had the same as the previous night. Rice pudding still creamy, the ice-cream still not needing the chocolate sauce. Another couple of conversation cakes (well, one liberated for later) and we started picking our way through the bill for three meals and a room with only a minor, innocent miscalculation. As we bade farewell I still couldn't fathom how the conch filled with Quality Streets fitted with the image but considering Marco's unpredictability, I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised.


Marco Pierre White's Yew Tree Inn
Hollington Cross
Andover Road
Highclere
Berkshire
RG20 9SE
T: 01635 253360
E: info@theyewtree.net

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Hussein Chalayan and Puma - A Match Made in Technology

© Christopher Moore Ltd.

Although easy to say after the event, The Iconomist knew all about this huge development before the release yesterday. Alas, sworn to secrecy, the news that Hussein Chalayan is to be Puma's Creative Director finally makes it's way here. Let's get it all out in the open- this is one hell of a coup for Puma. This isn't simply the usual designer footwear collaborations Puma have successfully undertaken in the past with Alexander McQueen et al. Chalayan will have a hand in designing the whole darn lot.

Jochen Zeitz, Chairman and CEO Puma and Hussein Chalayan

Having met Hussein, knowing his shows' stylist very well (oooh, get me!) and having kept a close eye on his progress it could be said The Iconomist is in a good position to assess this development. At first glance the two could not seem more opposed- the sportwear giant and the conceptual artist. But this is a case when opposites most certainly attract. Puma have a rich history in sportlifestyle, with a sharp eye for such a large company. And there is definite scope for Chalayan to push the brand in an exciting direction. After all, he loves his technology and sport and sportswear could not exist without it. As part of the deal Puma have acquired a majority stake in Chalayan's own brand which will allow him to realise even his most incredible dreams. As you can see from the video, Chalayan's collections can be awe-inspiring, none more so than the Spring/ Summer 2007 show the climax of which was met with weeping and unimaginable displays of emotion.

Come Autumn 2009 we can expect to see some pretty special things from Puma, something far more impressive than a pair of Kings in a new colour. Although a tracksuit that disappears into a baseball cap might be pushing it.

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Vanity Fair - Portraits

© Condé Nast Publications Inc.

Ask anyone working in magazines who knows their onions what their favourite magazine is and you will usually get one of two answers: World of Interiors or Vanity Fair. As World of Interiors doesn't tend to photograph people and Vanity Fair is 95 years old, the National Portrait Gallery have taken the world's finest celebrity magazine's extensive history and iconic imagery and turned them into a cracking exhibition.

© Jonas Karlsson

Think of any truly great photographer from the twentieth century and they will have shot for Vanity Fair. Helmut Newton, Man Ray, Herb Ritts, Cecil Beaton, the list goes on. It just so happens they're taking photos of some pretty famous people too. Claude Monet, Madonna, Greta Garbo and Charlie Chaplin have all graced the pages of the glamorous publication. It's a bit of an iconorama down at the NPG at the moment.

© Condé Nast Publications Inc.

This is just a small selection of of the breadth of the work on show. The exhibition has got something for everyone, from the photography student to the celeb addict, and with the expertise and track record of the NPG behind it, it is sure to become a fans' favourite.

© Mark Seliger

Vanity Fair - Portraits runs until 26 May at the National Portrait Gallery.

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Deutsche Börse Photography Prize 2008

In 1996 The Photographer's Gallery on Great Newport Street in London set up their Photography Prize to award the international photographer who is judged to have made the greatest contribution to photography over the previous year. Previous winners include Andreas Gursky, Luc Delahaye and Juergen Teller so this is a seriously big deal. The award winner will be announced in March after which the exhibition moves on to C/O Berlin finishing at the Deutsche Börse HQ. Four photographers are shortlisted but only one can win the £30,000 prize put forward by Deutsche Börse. Let's meet the contenders...

Esko Männikkö, the Finnish photographer, has been nominated for his broad retrospective Cocktails 1990-2007 which deals with the concept of isolation with a warmth, humour and integrity rarely seen in other work tackling the subject, particularly photography. Each piece is encased in a unique 'found' wood frame, emphasising the naturalism in his work.

The American photographer Fazal Sheikh, nominated for his Steidl-published book Ladli, is an artist-activist who draws attention to social inequalities and prejudices. Ladli examines the low opinion the Indian culture has of females, with many young girls either being neglected or abused. Sheikh gives identity to what is a forgotten social stratum, conveying their pain through his powerful black-and-white portraits.

In 1979 British born John Davies undertook a project to document the post-industrial landscape of Britain. Over twenty-five years later the project is still ongoing, with the development and transformation of "our green and pleasant land" still intriguing and inspiring Davies. The relationship between the monumnetal and the banal has never been so attractive.

Finally, Jacob Holdt. Setting off to traverse America with only $40 and a $30 Canon Dial camera in his pocket, the Danish photographer undertook what would prove to be one hell of a story. From schmoozing with some of the richest in the US to observing the abject poverty many minorities in the early 1970s were forced to endure, Holdt captured the essence of what it was like to be an American at the time whilst reflecting the social and cultural inequalities that blighted the country.

The prize is one of the most prestigious in photography and with £30,000 at stake, the competition is going to be fierce. Pick your own winner from today.

The Deutsche Börse Photography Prize runs from 8th February until 6th April at The Photographers Gallery and is free.

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The Bully You Can Love- Bottega Veneta's Essential Shoe

Were it possible to boil down fashion for Spring/ Summer 2008, the little jammy reduction at the bottom of the pan would look remarkably like these shoes from Bottega Veneta. A fun reflection of the relaxed formality Tomas Maier created for Spring, these woven wonders are a clever amalgam of golfing, orthopedic and sun-bleached preppy influences. They come in the three Miami pastels above (the grey and the blue are the colourways to go for) and are beautifully made (well it is Bottega) in super-soft calfskin. Peculiarly they're called "Bully", although they're certainly no thug, and are available to pre-order in the US now. Lucky devils.

Oh, and please don't wear them to actually play golf. They're far more Palm Beach than sand-trap...

"Bully" shoes by Bottega Veneta retail at $640 and are available here.

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Art Now- Strange Solution

Tomorrow sees the Tate Britain unveil their latest Art Now exhibition concentrating on current developments in contemporary British art. This installment addresses art that is made from found things, the simple re-juxtaposition of the items creating a new image and relationship with the viewer. Three of the featured artists stand out, but for very different reasons.

Katy Moran's luscious, rich, thick brushstrokes are very sensual, reminiscent of 18th century French painting but painted on found boards and cards. Although obviously abstract in style, her paintings have an odd portraiture or still-life composition which adds an element of mystery to her art.

Sugar Loves You © Katy Moran

Anthea Hamilton's scuptures are more obviously derived from found objects. Adding an element of humour to her "collection of meditations about love", as she calls her work, fun evocations of banal sexual attraction occupy large gallery spaces, with the viewer being able to interact with the life-sized, albeit lifeless, protagonists.

Busch Woman © Anthea Hamilton

Alice Channer's approach to her objets trouvés actively encourages viewer interaction, with some of her work having a distinct mystery through the creation of anticipation. Working in a clearly graphic manner, collectively her work can seem disparate, only related in their ambiguity and simplicity. Oh, and beauty too.

Thirteenth and Twelfth Scarf Drawing, detail © Alice Channer

All of the work exhibited is...intriguing. Make your own mind up tomorrow.

Art Now- Strange Solution runs from 2nd February to 13th April 2008 at Tate Britain and is free.

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Brown Leaves & Long Sleeves- A/W 2008 Menswear

Yves Saint Laurent Presentation © Chris Moore/ Karl Prouse

So, you've seen the Autumn/ Winter 2008 Menswear collections and you're wondering, "What does it all mean?" Well, first off have a browse of some of the great fashion sites out there. They will clear a certain amount up with regards to the broader trends (men.style.com and catwalking.com come highly recommended) but, considering no-one will buy up a whole trend in one go, what are the best bits, the real highlights of A/W 2008 for men- the pieces you will actually be wearing come the cold weather? Let's have a look...

To begin, Adam Kimmel, the New Yorker whose clothes are currently quietly (or not so quietly) but quickly charming their way into the hearts of many a man on both sides of the Atlantic. The aim for this collection was absolute quality, with cashmere being incorporated wherever possible and the importance of the Italian manufacturers hightened. The brown coat is a great style and looks impeccable and the marled combo looks super-soft. Drawing from a traditional and masculine colour palette, Kimmel manages to cleverly combine the workaday with the luxurious efortlessly.

© Adam Kimmel/ Alexei Hay

Moving on to Dame Westwood, this short cardi looks like it would be more at home on a beloved teddy bear or old school Action Man than modern man but it's just so damn cute you wont be able to resist. It's even got a bit of original Starsky in there to top it off.

Galliano was a bit of a shock this time round. Sure, he still does theatre like no-one else and some of the harlequin looks later in the show were a bit out there but, shock horror, there were actual clothes that a person could actually wear. How novel, and a marked difference from the wooly mammoths of A/W 07. This little executioner number went down well which, although heavily referencing Tudor England, is still eminently wearable.

Bottega Veneta next, with a refined take on forties workwear. This ensemble is a great example of how important colour is to creating a mood. Combined with the sympathetic use of lived-in cottons, the palette just makes sense and evokes a modern skyscraper-era New York, replete with rivets and snap fastenings. Understated perfection.

The suiting was very sharp too and benefitted from a silouette Tim Blanks of men.style.com described as, "less Chaplin than an icon...like Robert Mitchum" with neat, fitted jackets and more relaxed, baggy even, trousers. The whole collection was treated with such care and attention to detail to cut, design and quality by designer Tomas Maier that it's sure to prove a stealthy favourite.

Louis Vuitton's colour palette was stunning- the blues, putties and greys so rich and modern. The shoes (slightly erroneous) aside, the collection was another example of simply great clothes, a definite move away from frivolous in to the more grown-up. The layering was done with style and no little skill (well it is Paul Helbers we're talking about here) and this oh-so smart gunmetal wool coat certainly works with the slightly poignant feel of the show.

The Calvin Klein Collection show was one of masculinity and near-futurism. The high points were a graceful grey-blue coat over a charcoal chunky knit and his big brother, a thick-set, almost larger-than-life white sweater. Both sit well with this new direction- interesting yet real.

One "trend" of note is Jil Sander's marbled pieces. On everything from coats to suits, totes to turtlenecks, with a bit of mohair thrown in for good measure, it was all over this collection. This punctuated the usual monochromatic flat colour Jil Sander is known for well but it could be argued it made the collection choppy and to a degree incoherent. Is Raf Simons losing his marbles?

But there were some shows that missed the mark. Kris van Assche's Dior Homme runway unveiling was a bit of a missed opportunity with the designer playing safe when stamping his authority would have been more apt. Mr. Slimane is indeed a tough act to follow but there was simply too much van Assche and not enough Dior in a flat and uninspiring offering. It remains to be seen whether he really is the man for the job and needs time to bed into such an iconic house. Prada was just a bit weird. The double collar thing looked uncomfortable and the "boy-kini" (© Tim Blanks) was well, odd. Shirts buttoning up at the back and shiny bibs all seemed too tricky. That said, there was a smattering of reality for which the Prada faithful will be thankful come the Autumn.

But now for the icing on the cake plus an iced finger and a Danish. Stefano Pilati decided that guys walking down a catwalk was all a bit naff so instead went for a more enduring presentation in the form of a video. Produced by Colonel Blimp and featuring the British actor Simon Woods, the video exemplifies the idiosyncratic way Pilati designs for Yves Saint Laurent, with short cuts and triptych-style presentation bringing the clothes to life. The best word to describe this late sixties/ early seventies, Big Apple-inspired collection is immaculate. Everything, as one would expect from Yves Saint Laurent, is impeccably constructed, as though the garments aren't sewn so much as blended together. Not a silouette, fabric nor colour out of place. The best piece surely has to be the green wool (that's right, wool) biker jacket. Sounds hideous, works like a charm. The lapelless school blazer is great, the bold wide-collared striped cream coat makes a light-hearted statement and the dusky pink, slightly feminine wool coat is charming. And so it goes on, with every look reinforcing the sophisticated and modern feel introduced in the presentation. Take a look at the presentation below and the rest of the collection can be found here. You wont be disappointed.




So, proper clothes huh? Who'd have thought? Let's just hope this new sophistication and modernity is a nod to the future and that the industry has left behind the frivolity and impracticality that has sprinkled fashion for so long. It's time to get serious people!

Yves Saint Laurent images and video courtesy of Yves Saint Laurent.
All other images courtesy of Chris Moore/ Catwalking.

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Let's Go, Let's Go, Blogotheque!

Imagine standing on a cramped Tube train on your way in to work. That slightly peculiar soap-dodger in the corner is brandishing his knackered guitar, threatening to break the dull hum of the rat-race with a shrieking redition of "The One and Only". And then he starts. And now you're trapped in an atonal hell. Now imagine that the guy in the corner actually knows what he's doing. And that there's a cameraman in the carriage with him.

La Blogotheque's Take-Away Shows are wonderful alternative music videos captured by a chap called Vincent Moon, a video producer from Paris. In essence they find a band (you may have heard of them, you may not), find an interesting urban environment, the band starts playing and La Blogotheque start filming. It's all done in one take with no editing and no rehearsals which gives each video such a unique resonance, a special moment in time never to be repeated.

The Shins, Guillemots, The Divine Comedy, Arcade Fire and The Kooks, above, have all had a crack but there are so many more interesting acts to discover at La Blogotheque. Just don't tell too many people otherwise McFly will want to do one.

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Riitta Ikonen's Post

Being one of those student artsy types, Riitta Ikonen has the benefit of two things- time and talent. After all, why else would she spend her time mailing a plethora of random items from Japan, Russia, Spain, Finland and England to see if they would be delivered. About a hundred were sent. Only three didn't make it. Which wouldn't seem so surprising were it not for the the sheer oddness of the packages.

Take this lovingly soldered pipe for example. The address is crudely scratched into the metal and it still got there. It makes you wonder what the hell happened to that birthday card to Auntie Beryl that never arrived. On their own they are such perfect little vignettes but as a collection they have gained so much recognition that they are going to be featured in "Postcards", a book designed by FL@33 highlighting great postcard design.

Unfortunately you'll have to wait until September for that but take heart from the fact that, on Riitta's own website, you can check out many of the little packages for yourself. Oh, and be sure to check out the rest of her slightly mad work- it's definitely art made with a smile on its face. And not a DL envelope in sight.

Postcards will be published by Laurence King in September 2008.

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Sam Sparro - Ice Cool Songbird

As I'm sure all you cool kids on the music scene are already aware, Sam Sparro is on the verge of something big. Black & Gold, his soon to be released nailed on-hit, has been (and will be) likened to many things. I'm sure you'll have your own take on it but I'm plumping for like having a bath in warm honey as Marvin Gaye drops an electric fire in to join you. Sort of.

No matter. Pete Tong's already playing it on Radio 1 and, when it's released, you will be too. Over and over and over again. You'll be humming it all day and it'll be the soundtrack to your dreams. Have a listen for yourself. Let me know what you think.

At any rate it's got to be better than Westlife.

Black & Gold by Sam Sparro is out on March 31st on Island Records.

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Saul Leiter's Paris Trip

© Saul Leiter/ courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York

From today until the 13th of April the Parisians are in for a treat. Saul Leiter, the much celebrated American photographer, has been invited to bring his beautiful, poetic New York style to the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson in Paris. Leiter and his Leica have seen a lot of action over the years. Giving up his studies in theology to paint, he soon became heavily involved in photography and has now been shooting the streets for sixty years. His early experiments with paint have had notable influence on his photographic style, giving forth to elegant, expressionism-inspired work, employing a soft and rich colour palette.

© Saul Leiter/ courtesy Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York

When you think of New York it's Leiter's photographs your mind's eye sees which is precisely why his long overdue appearance in Paris is so intriguing. You would struggle to find two more contrasting cities but a Parisian artist born some sixty years before Leiter holds the key to why this exhibition will be such a success. You see, Paris had already encountered its Leiter in the form of one Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. The city took Toulouse-Lautrec, the master of fin-de-siecle Paris, to their hearts, the popularity of his rich, atmospheric paintings and illustrations previously unheard of to many. With Parisians' track record for embracing such artistic documentary, Leiter's work could be regarded as a wonderful busman's holiday for the French capital, a familiar vacation to be enjoyed and remembered for many years to come.

Exhibition details at the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson.

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The Iconomist

Allow me introduce myself. I am The Iconomist.

I'm here to celebrate all things iconic. People, places, music, film; if it's iconic I'm talking about it. And I'll be carving up a few false idols along the way too.

Have any suggestions? Please let me know.

I hope you enjoy the site.

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