Yves Saint Laurent Presentation © Chris Moore/ Karl ProuseSo, you've seen the Autumn/ Winter 2008 Menswear collections and you're wondering, "What does it all mean?" Well, first off have a browse of some of the great fashion sites out there. They will clear a certain amount up with regards to the broader trends (men.style.com and catwalking.com come highly recommended) but, considering no-one will buy up a whole trend in one go, what are the best bits, the real highlights of A/W 2008 for men- the pieces you will actually be wearing come the cold weather? Let's have a look...
To begin, Adam Kimmel, the New Yorker whose clothes are currently quietly (or not so quietly) but quickly charming their way into the hearts of many a man on both sides of the Atlantic. The aim for this collection was absolute quality, with cashmere being incorporated wherever possible and the importance of the Italian manufacturers hightened. The brown coat is a great style and looks impeccable and the marled combo looks super-soft. Drawing from a traditional and masculine colour palette, Kimmel manages to cleverly combine the workaday with the luxurious efortlessly.
© Adam Kimmel/ Alexei HayMoving on to Dame Westwood, this short cardi looks like it would be more at home on a beloved teddy bear or old school Action Man than modern man but it's just so damn cute you wont be able to resist. It's even got a bit of original Starsky in there to top it off.
Galliano was a bit of a shock this time round. Sure, he still does theatre like no-one else and some of the harlequin looks later in the show were a bit out there but, shock horror, there were actual clothes that a person could actually wear. How novel, and a marked difference from the wooly mammoths of A/W 07. This little executioner number went down well which, although heavily referencing Tudor England, is still eminently wearable.
Bottega Veneta next, with a refined take on forties workwear. This ensemble is a great example of how important colour is to creating a mood. Combined with the sympathetic use of lived-in cottons, the palette just makes sense and evokes a modern skyscraper-era New York, replete with rivets and snap fastenings. Understated perfection.
The suiting was very sharp too and benefitted from a silouette Tim Blanks of men.style.com described as, "less Chaplin than an icon...like Robert Mitchum" with neat, fitted jackets and more relaxed, baggy even, trousers. The whole collection was treated with such care and attention to detail to cut, design and quality by designer Tomas Maier that it's sure to prove a stealthy favourite.
Louis Vuitton's colour palette was stunning- the blues, putties and greys so rich and modern. The shoes (slightly erroneous) aside, the collection was another example of simply great clothes, a definite move away from frivolous in to the more grown-up. The layering was done with style and no little skill (well it is Paul Helbers we're talking about here) and this oh-so smart gunmetal wool coat certainly works with the slightly poignant feel of the show.
The Calvin Klein Collection show was one of masculinity and near-futurism. The high points were a graceful grey-blue coat over a charcoal chunky knit and his big brother, a thick-set, almost larger-than-life white sweater. Both sit well with this new direction- interesting yet real.
One "trend" of note is Jil Sander's marbled pieces. On everything from coats to suits, totes to turtlenecks, with a bit of mohair thrown in for good measure, it was all over this collection. This punctuated the usual monochromatic flat colour Jil Sander is known for well but it could be argued it made the collection choppy and to a degree incoherent. Is Raf Simons losing his marbles?
But there were some shows that missed the mark. Kris van Assche's Dior Homme runway unveiling was a bit of a missed opportunity with the designer playing safe when stamping his authority would have been more apt. Mr. Slimane is indeed a tough act to follow but there was simply too much van Assche and not enough Dior in a flat and uninspiring offering. It remains to be seen whether he really is the man for the job and needs time to bed into such an iconic house. Prada was just a bit weird. The double collar thing looked uncomfortable and the "boy-kini" (© Tim Blanks) was well, odd. Shirts buttoning up at the back and shiny bibs all seemed too tricky. That said, there was a smattering of reality for which the Prada faithful will be thankful come the Autumn.
But now for the icing on the cake plus an iced finger and a Danish. Stefano Pilati decided that guys walking down a catwalk was all a bit naff so instead went for a more enduring presentation in the form of a video. Produced by Colonel Blimp and featuring the British actor Simon Woods, the video exemplifies the idiosyncratic way Pilati designs for Yves Saint Laurent, with short cuts and triptych-style presentation bringing the clothes to life. The best word to describe this late sixties/ early seventies, Big Apple-inspired collection is immaculate. Everything, as one would expect from Yves Saint Laurent, is impeccably constructed, as though the garments aren't sewn so much as blended together. Not a silouette, fabric nor colour out of place. The best piece surely has to be the green wool (that's right, wool) biker jacket. Sounds hideous, works like a charm. The lapelless school blazer is great, the bold wide-collared striped cream coat makes a light-hearted statement and the dusky pink, slightly feminine wool coat is charming. And so it goes on, with every look reinforcing the sophisticated and modern feel introduced in the presentation. Take a look at the presentation below and the rest of the collection can be found here. You wont be disappointed.
So, proper clothes huh? Who'd have thought? Let's just hope this new sophistication and modernity is a nod to the future and that the industry has left behind the frivolity and impracticality that has sprinkled fashion for so long. It's time to get serious people!
Yves Saint Laurent images and video courtesy of Yves Saint Laurent.
All other images courtesy of Chris Moore/ Catwalking.
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